Wonderful Wakenitz

Glistening water, birdsongs and lots of green nature. A paddle tour from Lübeck to Lake Ratzeburg takes you on a journey of deep relaxation.

We calmly push off from the shore and glide out onto the Wakenitz. Here in Lübeck, the UNESCO World Heritage city, we begin our almost 15-kilometer paddle towards Lake Ratzeburg. Our destination is the Wakenitz Camp, a campsite with canoe rental run by brothers Ole and Eike Krebs together with their father. The three- to five-hour tour is suitable for inexperienced paddlers like me, as the Wakenitz flows along wonderfully calmly. Here in Lübeck, it forms a large lake lined with villas and boathouses, but we don’t let that distract us. Nature on the Wakenitz is waiting for us, and the two operators of the canoe center know it like the back of their hands.

From the urban jungle right into the “Amazon of the North”

Two people stand next to a cart with stacked red canoes; one person in yellow holds a paddle and talks to the other. — Everyone gets the right paddle before the trip

Aerial view of the wonderful Wakenitz: waterfront promenade, jetty with boats, green park, town center with church towers in the background. — The paddle tour begins in an urban setting in the middle of Lübeck

Two people in red life jackets paddle in a red canoe on the Wakenitz, surrounded by trees. — The flow velocity of the Wakenitz is so low that you can paddle upstream in a relaxed manner

Man with orange life jacket lifts red canoe (RZ-2464V) on the gravel shore; vehicles and kayaks in the background. — Arrived: The canoes are lifted out of the water at the Wakenitz camp and stowed away in the dry for the night

Shortly after leaving the urban scenery of Lübeck behind us, the Wakenitz reveals its most beautiful side. Alder forests, dense undergrowth and lush greenery arching idyllically over the water envelops us. It is not without reason that the small river is also known as the “Amazon of the North”. Sitting in the boat with me is 33-year-old Eike, who wears a paper-boy hat and dips his paddle calmly and regularly into the river water. His brother Ole doesn’t seem to mind the autumn temperatures. Wearing a short T-shirt and shorts, he sits in the second canoe and paddles vigorously. As we glide southwards, Eike talks about their family business. “Our father founded the company in 1983. He started out with just one canoe! Today, we have around 200 of them, spread across stations on the Wakenitz, Trave and Schalsee canals as well as our two campsites in Schleswig-Holstein.”

You can’t miss the fact that Eike and Ole are at home on the water. They move across the river with practiced swings and can even move their canoes sideways. “Paddling is the ideal way for me to travel,” enthuses Eike. And Ole: “You experience a special kind of freedom on the water.”

Underwater shot in green water; orange paddle blade of a canoe paddle, fingers on the edge, bubbles rising. — The water of the Wakenitz is incredibly clear

Two paddlers in a red kayak on the Wakenitz, calm water, distant shoreline landscape with sails on the horizon. — And after the tour? Enjoying the evening atmosphere on Lake Ratzeburg

Two canoeists in red canoe Penobscot 174 on the Wakenitz, surrounded by shore trees; boat stickers visible. — What a pleasure! The further you drive, the wilder and greener nature becomes.

Three swans calmly cross a river, surrounded by riverside trees, the water glistening in the sunlight. — On the way, we encounter three young swans that quickly disappear into the distant greenery

Two men on the banks of the Wakenitz, TEAM T-shirts, laughing, bridge and trees in the background. — Brothers Ole (right) and Eike (left) Krebs run the company together

The further we get, the more pristine the nature of the true north appears around us. Rays of sunlight break through the tall trees again and again, painting bright spots on the water and warming us. In the clear water I spot a school of perch cavorting among the plants. Nature hums and buzzes with life as dragonflies dance in the sun, swans glide majestically past us. “Rare animals feel at home here, and if you’re lucky, you might even see a kingfisher,” reveals Eike.

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A place to relax

After five leisurely hours on the water, we reach our destination, the Wakenitz Camp in Rothenhusen. You can’t miss the disembarkation point; as there is a large red tent with seating within sight. Right next to it is a kiosk offering ice cream and drinks. “You don’t have to camp with us to rest here,” says Eike. “The kiosk is there for everyone.”

Three people sit in a red canoe on a jetty next to autumn trees on the beautiful Wakenitz. — After just under 15 kilometers, we reach our destination of Rothenhusen. What a shame … It was so beautiful on the water!

Incidentally, the fact that the two brothers are traveling alone with me today is the exception. They normally accompany groups or school classes. “We mainly provide the logistics for the canoeing experience,” explains Ole. The brothers take care of the transfer of the guests, provide the canoes and, after a detailed safety briefing, let them paddle down the Wakenitz on their own, so everyone can enjoy the river at their own pace.

As we sit on the jetty after arriving at camp, it’s hard for me to say goodbye to the Wakenitz. When I ask if I’ve really seen everything, Ole and Eike grab their paddles and untie the lines. “Get in! Lake Ratzeburg is only a few meters away and particularly beautiful in the evening light.”