Wadden wonderland

The Schleswig-Holstein Wadden Sea National Park celebrates its 40th birthday in 2025. It is a natural experience, a unique habitat and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. How lucky for everyone who gets to work there every day! We had a tidal flat guide, a biologist and a ranger tell us a little about it.

There must be no wind, it must be nice and warm and the mudflats must have dried out properly. Then, enthuses mudflat guide Anke Dethlefsen, you can hear that special crackling sound: the mud crabs brush water bubbles off their antennae. This strange and beautiful sound brings mudflat walkers to their knees. “If you bend down, you can take a closer look and dig in the gray mud,” says the 57-year-old. The exercise evokes childhood curiosity. You cannot help but marvel at how the mudflat expert pulls an annelid worm out of a murky puddle or as you watch cockles dig themselves into the muddy ground with pulsating jolts.

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If you bend down, you can take a closer look and even dig in the mud

Anke Dethlefsen

The mudflats are a kind of mega-city; each square meter is home to up to 40,000 mud crabs, 10,000 mud snails and lots of other animals. The tidal flats are nurseries for plaice, herring, sole and shrimp. A handful of mud is teeming with life, living space for millions. “And this vastness!” enthuses Dethlefsen, who prefers to walk barefoot on her favorite terrain off the Hamburg Hallig between Husum and Dagebüll in all weathers. “Where else can you experience something like this?”

The moon draws water away from the earth

Welcome to the Schleswig-Holstein Wadden Sea National Park, the largest of its kind between the North Cape and Sicily. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site like the Serengeti, the Grand Canyon or the Great Barrier Reef. A world of wonders. The water comes twice a day, it goes twice. Breathe in, breathe out.. The moon sets is the metronome for this orchestra of nature. Like a magnet, it pulls the water away from the earth, creating flood peaks and ebb valleys full of tidal creeks and troughs, bays, peeps, dykes and sea channels, the paths through which the water flows in and out of the muddy plains.

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For birds, the dry areas are a gigantic gourmet restaurant. They gather their energy here in the fall for the journey south and stop again to replenish themselves on the return journey in the spring. For ranger Leonie Dittmann on Föhr, the thousands of geese, curlews, Arctic tundra dunlins, lapwings and oystercatchers are a sight that always gives her goosebumps, especially at her favorite spot, the Godel lowlands. From here you can see snapshots from fauna across the world visiting Schleswig-Holstein on their migratory paths. Ten to twelve million migratory birds are arriving and departing each year. That’s eight times more take-offs and landings than at Frankfurt Airport. The 27-year-old loves this spectacle, but also the tranquillity of the mudflats.

I simply feel very lucky to be able to work in this unique habitat. So much is still unexplored and there is always something to discover!

Leonie Dittmann
Forscherin im Freien mit Fernglas und Teleobjektiv, grüne Jacke, Schal, Wind im Haar, blauer Himmel mit Wolken© Oliver Raatz
The ranger: Leonie Dittmann searches for lapwings, white-fronted geese, and oystercatchers.
Gruppe weißer Schafe grast auf einer grasigen Küstenwiese, vor Meer und wolkigem Himmel.© Oliver Raatz
Sheep graze to keep the dykes perfectly maintained.
Küstenlandschaft bei Ebbe mit Wattenmeer, zahlreiche Möwen am Wasser, Dünen, Bäume und Haus im Hintergrund.© Oliver Raatz
Resting place: Up to twelve million migratory birds stop off in the mudflats every year – here off the island of Föhr.
Yellow sign on the post indicating breeding and resting area, please do not enter; coastal landscape in the background.© Oliver Raatz
A sanctuary for nature: Birds find peace and quiet in the breeding and resting areas of the national park
Blurred photographer in the foreground looks out over the Wadden Sea; a small flock of birds flies in the sky.
Migratory birds approaching: ranger Leonie Dittmann observes how the sky over Föhr becomes a runway
Close-up of a hermit crab with shell on sandy bottom in an aquarium, Wattenwunderwelt© Oliver Raatz
A little star in the mudflats: the hermit crab
Young woman with glasses and pigtail holds a bird figurine at the window, next to it stands a man; context Wattenwunderwelt.© Oliver Raatz
Nature conservation you can touch: Ranger Leonie Dittmann explains the special features of the local wildlife on Föhr
a woman looks through binoculars while another woman stands next to her© Oliver Raatz
a woman looks through binoculars while another woman stands next to her

 

Even the gentian blooms on the salt marshes

For the salt marshes, every high tide means a full bath. Beach plantain and aster become spicy wild vegetables in this briny bath. The fat marsh samphire ends up as a naturaly salty treat enjoyed in many a salad bowl. Everyone is allowed to pick a bunch as long as they don’t leave the path or enter protection zone 1. Beach aster and Hallig lilac bathe the meadows in bright purple in summer, while the scent of beach wormwood tickles the nose.

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“Many guests are also completely amazed that we have gentian plants here,” says biologist Rainer Borcherding, 57. “Most people think of them as being in the Alps.” However, Borcherding is sometimes surprised himself on his forays across the beach, dunes, meadows and mudflats of the national park.

Last year I discovered new occurrences of marsh ragwort and a few other plants in dune valleys that were thought to be almost extinct

Rainer Borcherding

He welcomes newcomers from afar, of the plant variety, with caution. The American weeping cherry, Japanese wakame algae, and cactus moss from New Zealand grow here despite not being native to the area. “Some seeds hang under the dirty feet of migratory birds, others are washed up by storm surges, float in the ballast water of large container pots or blow over from ornamental gardens. Plants such as sea bindweed or sea spurge were previously only known to us from Mediterranean vacations. They are now here due to the warming.”

Other mudflat professionals also make a similar observation. Ranger Leonie Dittmann on her tours through the mudflats and mudflat guide Anke Dethlefsen while poking through the silt point out other changes in the park’s composition. For many animals, the north is the new south.

Dolphins have also been spotted here

For those observant enough, a beach walk is exciting on the west coast of Schleswig-Holstein. The average beach walker can be seen stopping to marvel at their new discoveries. Slightly bent over, they can be seen creeping along the edge of the waves, their gaze scanning the sand, their fingers repeatedly darting for a shell or a periwinkle. They’re called Tinkeltuut here, a word derived from Low German. Anyone who thinks they have discovered something unknown can report it in the BeachExplorer app, an identification aid. Moonfish, dolphins and, more recently, seahorses – they’ve all been here in the national park.

This raises questions. Which Leonie Dittmann loves to answer, and not just at the weekly “Schnack mit der Rangerin”. “The Wadden Sea and the North Sea coast are a place of longing for many people,” she says. “You won’t find anything like this anywhere else.”

Wadden Sea professional Borcherding is also enchanted time and again. Last year, for example, he was sitting on a viewing dune on Sylt, a thunderstorm was looming and a rainbow was arching over the expanse of the mudflats. “Suddenly a flock of oystercatchers came through the black sky.” He didn’t have a cell phone with him to take a photo. Nevertheless, the picture remains unforgettable. Even if his only copy is in his head.

Everything about the Wadden Sea National Park

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